Fly and lure maintenance pays off

My last story on inventorying, repairing and cleaning fishing flies inspired me so much I went right to work on my spinning and bait-casting lures.

Whereas how best to organize flies is one of the greatest unanswered questions in the sport, organizing lures is naturally easier and makes more sense.

Rather than dump all my lures in one, big suitcase-sized box, I carry them in 11-by-7-inch shallow plastic Plano boxes, organized by what type of fish I hope to catch.

On the end of the box, on a short strip of masking tape, some boxes say “Walleye” or “Macs” or “Bass” or “Pike.” One says “Slip Bobbers.” This way, on a fishing trip, I only take the lures I expect to use.

Regardless of lure, the first thing to examine is the hook. If it’s rusty, replace it. Cut it off, if necessary, and attach the new hook with a split ring. Replacement hook should be the same size as the original so the lure “works” as designed.

Dull hooks can be easily sharpened with a file. Why go to all the expense of a fishing trip only to lose fish because your hooks are dull?

I mean, c’mon, face it. If the inside of your tackle box looks like it’s been sprayed with a rust-colored paint, you’ve got some work to do.

Lures can be scrubbed with a toothbrush in hot, soapy water, then rinsed well. Shiny blades attract fish. Dull blades are good only for casting practice.

The Original NEVR-DULL Magic Wadding Polish is my favorite for shining metal blades. You’ll find many other household uses for it also.

Wobbling minnows, like Rapalas, sometimes lose paint due to violent fish strikes. Do a touch-up paint job. Rubber skirts can be replaced on spinnerbaits.

The plasticizers in soft plastic baits can melt incompatible plastic boxes, and even though the tails remain soft after a few years, they lose their sheen and appear dull. Store plastic tails by color and only buy what you really intend to use fishing.